Heathkit w6m manual

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Which seems to be practically forever. So don't delay. Remember to read the manual quality descriptions you find there before ordering. If you need a replacement manual for a modern Heathkit, please contact customer support, as this may entail custom printing of your replacement manual, deactivation and replacement of the old serial number, reprogramming of your custom MPU or other kit changes, and changes in your accounts at Heathkit.

Here for you. Vintage Manuals are still available. At far right are the speaker terminals and a four-position load selector that lets you choose a speaker of 4, 8, or 16 ohms, as well as a volt output.

The previous photo also shows a power switch between the two big black transformers. This non-stock switch was added by the original owner. The On-Off switch is located on the preamp, but all power comes from the W-6M. In addition to volt AC for the master power switch, the connecting cable carries 6.

Adding an auxiliary power switch to the amp lets you use it with an input other than the WA-P2 preamp. In that case, you simply leave the WA-P2 power socket disconnected, but your alternate input will have to provide whatever volume control or tone controls you desire. Let's get started with the restoration!

Although sophisticated in design, the W-6M amp is much simpler to restore than most of the radios and TVs I have tackled before. In this discussion, I'll refer to the following schematic:. In the upper compartment we see five large cans, which hold seven of the amp's eight electrolytic capacitors. The lower compartment contains the signal circuitry and five solid-state power-supply rectifiers.

Our first glance is encouraging. This amp was assembled precisely, with tidy solder joints and proper lead dress, exactly as shown in the building manual. In a high-fidelity device, every component and wire is precisely located to prevent distortion or background hum. The original owner did a very professional job!

Looking more closely, I see evidence of overheating or at least aging in this pair of 22K resistors on the 12AU7 tube. These resistors are connected to the second section of the 12AU7 tube, which operates as a phase splitter, feeding the audio signal to the 12AX7 push-pull amplifier stage.

Even though the old resistors test very close to the specified value, I'll replace them for peace of mind. Finding no other surprises, I proceeded to do some clean-up and other preliminary tasks, such as testing the tubes and cleaning the tube pins and sockets see First Steps in Restoration. You normally can't tell much about a tube's condition from its outer appearance, but in this case I can see that the old tubes racked up many hours of playing time.

Note the difference between the new and old tubes:. The new tube's "getter" is thick and silvery, while the old one is dull and depleted, nearly transparent. The getter is a thin deposit of metal often barium inside the tube's glass envelope.

Its purpose is to adsorb any stray molecules of gas that were left behind when the tube was evacuated during manufacture. As more and more molecules are neutralized during the tube's working life, the getter changes appearance. Don't conclude too much from appearances, however. A depleted-looking getter isn't necessarily a death sentence: a tube that has been used long enough to fade its getter may still have plenty of life left.

Both of my old tubes looked superficially similar, but one of them tested with very strong emission, and I would have been willing to use it indefinitely—if I could find another one that matched its characteristics.

If I had bought only one new tube, there's a chance that the strong old one would have worked acceptably with it, but it was simpler to buy a new matched pair that's guaranteed to work. As noted in my recapping article , capacitor replacement is a routine part of restoring every vintage tube device.

I'll begin, as usual, with the big electrolytics.